Whether you are transitioning, just went natural, or have been natural your whole life, you may be looking for ways to maintain a healthy head of hair.
Here are a few Do’s and Don’ts to help you through your journey.
1
Don't let moisture ruin your day…
Moisture and humidity seem to be the enemy since they can revert, shrink, or expand flat-ironed, blow-dried, or stretched hair anywhere from 20% to 80% of its length. Even hair that is in a non-stretched style finds a way to take on a new look.
The Culprit…
Hydrogen bonds are one of the three bonds found in hair. The other two are covalent, and ionic bonds. The bonds all hold the protein chains together, which gives the hair its strength.
Hydrogen bonds are the easiest to break since all we need is heat or water. They are the reason that our hair can be stretched when wet and straightened when heat is applied. Hydrogen bonds are also the reason our hair reverts, shrinks, or expands in the presence of water.
Do you!
Understanding hydrogen bonds and how easily they can be disrupted may help with managing the inevitable. If rain or high levels of humidity are expected, consider hairdos that are going to withstand, like buns, braids, twists, flat twists, or a combination of any of those in the front with the back of the hair left out. There are also styling products that contain silicones and other ingredients that help to seal out the moisture. This will allow you to still be able to enjoy your hairdo and your day!
2
Don’t forget to moisturize, but don’t overdo it.
Sure we just spoke about how moisture likes to have its way with our hair, but without moisture, our hair would become dry, brittle, and frizzy.
Too much moisture is also a problem and can eventually lead to damage called hygral fatigue because of the constant swelling and contracting of the hair cuticle. Even though the cuticle is formed from dead cells, they serve an important function since they protect the inner parts of the hair by overlapping like the shingles on a roof. When too much water enters, the hair strands get weaker because the hydrogen bonds that hold the protein chains together are broken.
Fun fact: A hygrometer is used to measure the humidity, or amount of water vapor in the air.
Do you!
Moisturizing can help with detangling, softening, and resetting hair. Plain water or a leave-in conditioner that contains water as one of the main ingredients can do wonders for parched hair. For an occasional shortcut, skip the shower cap and let the mist do its magic then seal with a leave-in conditioner or oil. (Make sure you are not using hot water). If you are concerned about shrinkage, you can do this at night and use large twists, braids, or a low bun to stretch your hair while you sleep then style it the following day.
3
Don’t consider all oils as one and the same. Decide whether you want an oil that can penetrate or seal your hair.
Those with kinky and curly hair may notice that you have an oily scalp near the roots, but further down the strands, your hair appears dry. The reason for this is that it’s harder for the natural oils that your scalp produces to travel down the strands of your hair due to the many twists and turns. You may be tempted to use any oil to get rid of the dry appearance but it’s best to know the properties of the oil you are using so that your results can be more along the lines of what you were expecting.
Do you!
There are some oils that can penetrate the hair, like coconut oil for example. Warming the oils can help with penetration. Coconut oil is often used on damp hair before shampooing because of its ability to penetrate and protect the hair from protein loss and hygral fatigue. Hygral fatigue refers to the stress and damage that hair can experience when it undergoes frequent and excessive swelling during wetting and drying cycles like those that occur during washing and certain styling routines. Coconut oil is attracted to the proteins in our hair and has a straight linear chain. These properties allow it to seep into the hair. Since the gaps and voids are temporarily filled with oil instead of water, this limits the amount of swelling, shrinking, and protein loss that would normally occur when we wash our hair.
Oils that provide little to no penetration like jojoba or castor oil are best to smooth, shine, and seal moisture into the hair.
Keep in mind: Coconut oil can be drying for some, and castor oil may be too heavy for sealing so try other penetrating and sealing oils to see what works for you.
4
Don’t forget to deep condition hair.
It’s easy to skip deep conditioning because we may feel that we don’t have enough time for it, or that we simply don’t need it. Some deep conditioners are made to work in 5 to 30 minutes, which isn’t much time to spare when you consider the benefits. There are moisturizing deep conditioners and protein deep conditioners. We need the right balance of protein and moisture because too much of one and not enough of the other can damage the hair.
Protein loss equals weaker hair.
Moisture loss equals dry hair.
Too much protein causes hardened, brittle hair, that snaps easily.
Too much moisture causes mushy, overly stretchy, limp hair.
Do You!
Protein deep conditioners can be used once a month. Protein conditioners with collagen, hydrolyzed silk, keratin, and amino acids help to reinforce the hair. Just don’t use them excessively because it can lead to overly rigid hair that breaks easily. Also don’t forget to follow up with a moisturizing deep conditioner to avoid stiffness and dryness.
Moisturizing deep conditioners contain ingredients such as honey and humectants and help with hydration, softness, and manageability.
5
Don't attempt to detangle with a fine-tooth comb.
If you have thick, textured hair save yourself from the damage of ripping through your hair with a tiny comb.
Do you!
Dampen hair with a water-based conditioner or spray. Start detangling from the ends with a wide-tooth comb. Finger detangling can then be used for more precision if you wish.
6
Don’t use heat often.
Occasionally, you may decide to use heat but the more you do, the greater your chance of damaging your curls. If you must use heat, make sure that you use a heat protectant and a low heat setting. Although some flat irons go up to 450 degrees or more, you don’t have to utilize that much heat. Challenge yourself to a lower temperature like 200 degrees or put your blow dryer on a cool setting. You may be pleasantly surprised!
7
Don’t wear high-tension styles.
Pulling the hair tightly may help to give the appearance of a neat, freshly done hairstyle, however, the effects on the hair and scalp may not be desirable. The strands can break at the point where the hair is tightly secured, or you can develop traction alopecia, in which the tension on the follicles leaves you with bald or thin patches.
Do you!
Find hairstyles that do not put a strain on the hair. Consider switching between various styles so that there is no strain on a particular area of the hair.
8
Don’t be afraid of clarifying.
It may sound counterintuitive to remove oils from the hair beyond what would occur during a regular wash session, but clarifying is beneficial for getting rid of product buildup, excess oils, and impurities. If you suffer from excessive dandruff, psoriasis, seborrheic dermatitis, and eczema of the scalp you may want to consult a physician on your best course of action to avoid drying out your scalp. Those with color-treated hair should take into consideration that clarifying may strip the hair of color. For anyone who chooses to clarify, just keep in mind that this process is not to be done during each wash cycle.
Do you!
You can use clarifying shampoos or clays to get the job done.
Not sure how often? Once a month or every other month may suffice for drier hair types. Once a week or every other week may be better for those who frequent the swimming pool and are concerned about chlorine or those who use a lot of products that are causing your hair to appear limp, crisp, or heavy. Clarifying can restore your natural shine or sheen and remove the greenish tint that may occur from frequent pool swimming.
Be sure to follow up with a good conditioner and hydrating products to restore moisture.
9
Don’t use products with drying alcohols.
Although the alcohol added to some products may allow them to dry faster and give your hair a lightweight feel, they can lead to dryness and damage over time.
Do you!
Remember that just because a product contains alcohol, doesn’t mean that it is the drying type. There are fatty alcohols that are emollients that condition the hair. There are aromatic alcohols that provide a scent. There are cyclic alcohols that are also used as solvents and fragrances (like menthol). Certain products with high concentrations of menthol may seem drying because of the cooling sensation it provides.
If you still choose to use products with drying alcohols, make sure that you balance them with hydrating/ moisturizing products in your routine to counteract the dryness.
10
Don’t forget to protect your hair.
Depending on your hair type and length, protection measures will vary. Some may find that leaving the hair uncovered at night causes little to no issues. For others, not protecting the hair at night can lead to tangling and breakage. Even in protecting the hair be mindful that the use of tight accessories and styles can lead to tension alopecia and breakage.
Do you!
Protect hair with a silk or satin pillowcase. Wrap or tie hair with a silk scarf. Use loose braids or twists to prevent tangling.